Stitch Diagrams

I guess a nice second post would be to write about stitch diagrams.

I use Inkscape for my drawings.  I've tried other software, but Inkscape just seems to be the best fit for me.  It was a pretty steep learning curve and boy was I excited when I found a tutorial on radial clones!  But now that I've gotten the hang of most of the features (I still learn new things from time to time), it's pretty straightforward to create a nice drawing.  Sometimes those radial clones go a bit wonky after saving the file, but I work around that bug by opening a new document and that straightens things out, then I just overwrite the file (save with the same name) and all is fine.

There are a number of ways to create shapes/stitches around a curve in Inkscape and most tutorials like the "stamp" method.  I didn't prefer this method because it is done by eyeing the placement of each st around the circle.  This might be fine for one or maybe two rounds, but little differences tend to cause problems as more rounds are added. Radial clones allow for an exact placement around a circle (exactly spaced).  The issue I haven't yet found a solution for is placing the center of rotation exactly for each round, I still need to eye it by placing the center on a little circle that is kept at the center of the drawing (never rotating, never moved).  I enlarge the drawing so that the tiny circle is very big and then it is easier to place the center of rotation just where I want it. 

This is an example of a doodle I made today.  Normally each round would be a different color (usually blue alternating with black), but since it was just a doodle, I chose to not do that.  I also didn't add the turning chains or a sl st to join.  We can pretend each row is a different color and a standing st is used to begin the round and an invisible join (duplicate st) is used to close it so that it doesn't need those things.

Begin with a magic ring.

Round 1:  [Dc, ch 1] 10 times into magic ring.

Round 2:  [2 sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1] 10 times.

Round 3:  [(dc in BLO of next sc) twice, ch 2] 10 times.

Pretty simple, maybe a little flower petal or the beginning of a dishcloth, or..?

This is the procedure I followed

Round 1: I started with my center dot and a circle to have the dc go around (the center dot is in the exact center of the circle, I deleted these 2 things when the drawing was complete).  I randomly chose 10 sts.  I set up the radial clones to be placed every 36˚ (360 ÷ 10) and moved the rotation center of the dc being cloned to be even with the central dot, then clicked "create" and my dc appeared in a lovely perfect circle, with each st evenly spaced.  Then I set up the ch st in the same way, making sure it was evenly spaced between two dc before cloning (I grouped and then rotated the dc sts). 

Round 2:  I wanted to place both sc at the same time, so I set up one sc to clone itself only once (giving me 2 sc, choose "2 clones" from the tiled clones box) and 10˚ apart, which was a trial and error thing.  Once I had them spaced in the ch-sp nicely, I grouped the 2 sc, set the center of rotation, changed my radial clones back to 36˚ and 10 clones and clicked "create".  Then I set up the ch st in the same way as I did for the previous round.

Round 3:  I wondered if it would be just as simple to have the dc done separately over the sc.  But first I decided that the dc should be in the BLO (because I had the st but haven't used it much).  I placed the BLO symbol over the first sc and used the same settings as when I was creating the second sc (to be grouped with the first sc and then those two were copied around).  It turns out my BLO symbol was a bit too wide, so I shrank it a bit (by eyeing it with my mouse, not scaling it down via transformation).  That worked nicely, so I duplicated it (radially, 10˚ one clone), and grouped those two symbols and cloned it around (10 times).  I centered the dc over one st, set the center of rotation and duplicated it 10 times, then I did the same thing for a second dc and called it a day.

Notes on the procedure

Each time I placed a new st to be cloned around the drawing, I rotated the drawing to get the new st positioned properly, sometimes by 5˚ and sometimes by 0.5˚; this was always done by eyeballing it since I didn't want to risk messing up the st placement with the automatic alignment. (LOL, I said I didn't like eyeballing earlier, but sometimes it just works out better for a particular application.)

Also, I always delete the original st (which is directly on top of the first clone) because it tends to be annoying and it also creates a darker st since there are two sts directly on top of each other.  It would be good to keep the original st (and delete the clone underneath) if you wanted all the other sts to be a clone to the first.  This would allow you to move or color only the original and all the clones would behave the same way.  This usually causes problems for me, so I get rid of it.

I draw each st myself based on the "standard" sts used in most U.S. books and magazines as well as Japanese patterns.  I just drew that "magic ring" symbol today and am very happy with it.  I don't draw new sts for each drawing, I have a little collection that I add to as I need something new, and some of the sts (the dc for example) have evolved into a nicer shape.  I always start with that collection when I open Inkscape and copy the few sts I need to a new file and go from there.

PRICING

So, what do I charge for stitch diagrams?

That depends on the diagram.  Flat drawings are easier than curved and circular drawings, so they cost a bit less.  

Each diagram begins with $5 (or $10 if I wasn't the technical editor).

Each unique row is $4 ($5 for curved drawings).

Each copied row is $1 ($2 for curved drawings).

The drawing on this page would be $20.

3 unique curved rows: 3 X $5 = $15

The beginning $5: 1 X $5 = $5

$15 + $5 = $20.
Unless I wasn't the editor, then it would be $25.

I draw primarily for patterns that I have edited.  Feel free to ask me, though, if you only want drawings, since I like drawing st diagrams and if I have the time, I'm happy to do it.

If I don't edit the pattern, the beginning/set-up fee is $10 instead of $5.  If a drawing is super super simple (no corners, no curves, although complete circles, as the doodle above, may fit into this super super simple category) and had no technical errors, I'd be open to charging the $5 set up without an edit. 

CONUNDRUM

One of the reasons that I prefer to do drawings primarily for my technical-editing clients is that I find errors/typos as I read the pattern.  So, since a drawing-only client isn't paying me to edit, what's my responsibility to that client?  I would definitely mention that there is a problem with certain rows if the pattern would be undoable for somebody that needs help to work a pattern (errors may cause beginning crocheters to give up). Plus I'd need to know how to proceed since if it can't be crocheted as written, it probably can't be drawn.  Typos (Roow 2: cH 3,...) aren't a death knell for a pattern (but they do look less professional) so, if they aren't pervasive, I'd probably not mention them beyond letting them know they need to go in and reread the pattern for typos and give an example or two.  Also, I'm less likely to see typos when working on the drawing, since I'm concentrating on the sts, not the words.


Make sense?

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any great Inkscape tips, or if you want to solve a problem drawing your own crochet stitch diagrams (YouTube has some great videos, oftentimes the Illustrator videos are helpful, too).

Another good way to get in touch with me is through Ravelry, my username is Amerz.

WHY HIRE A TECHNICAL EDITOR FOR YOUR CROCHET PATTERN?

Well, there may be any of a number of reasons.

1. You're new to pattern writing and aren't sure where to start.
2. You're an experienced pattern writer and know that a second set of eyes is invaluable.
3. You've had your patterns tested, but customers are still not giving glowing reviews to your pattern writing, or are finding errors.
4. There's always something else that needs correcting.
5. You want to bounce ideas off of somebody that understands crochet completely.

I can help you with all of these reasons, and probably others that you haven't even thought of.

Well, probably the first thing you're thinking is: "How much is this going to cost me?"

I charge $30/hour and normally use PayPal to invoice.  If you have another favorite way to pay, then let me know.

The next thing you're probably wondering is: "How long will it take?"

• That's tricky.  A pattern with a lot of errors will take a lot longer than one that's mostly error free.  A pattern with multiple sizes will take longer than a simple scarf.  
• Mostly between 1.5 and 3.5 hours.

"That sounds fine, so, what do you do with my pattern that takes all that time?"

Many things!

• First I read through looking for actual pattern errors.

1. Does the gauge match the finished size? (Gauge always matters! yes, even for that scarf.)
2. If told to work into the next 3 sc, are those 3 sc there to work into?
3. If told to make 5 rpts of a st pattern, is there enough room for all 5 rpts?
4. Is it symmetrical (or not, if it's not a symmetrical pattern)?
5. Is it sc and not dc?
6. Is all the math correct?
7. Is that the actual name for the yarn? is it really that color number? is it available in the color you listed?
8. and on and on, so many potential technical errors.

• I make sure all the abbreviations used are in the list and all those in the list are used.
• Are all the periods there? how about the commas? spaces, are there one or two? are all your hyphens the same size? are all the hyphens there (worsted-weight yarn vs yarn that is worsted weight)
• After I've read it through the first time, I read it again checking for all the little things that might have slipped through with the first reading since the main focus of the first read is the correctness of the instructions rather than grammarish things.  (OK, grammarish isn't a word, but it looks good here.)
• Which leads me to: It's your pattern. I'm not the crochet police. Do you really want US instead of U.S.?  OK.  You really hate tr for treble crochet and want to use trc instead.  OK.  Do you want 10cm or 10 cm?  

1. I'll point things out to you that fit my preference, but some things are best left to you, the designer.
2. Do you have a style guide?  Then I'll check it and follow it so you won't have to have me ask you about your well-thought-out choices.
3. Do you have stitch diagrams?  I'll compare them to the written instructions to make sure they "say" the same thing.

"Hey, wait a minute! didn't you just say you weren't the crochet police, shouldn't you be checking to see if I follow the crochet standards?"

• Yes, I'm not the crochet police, I'm a technical editor.  I'm here to make sure your pattern is as professional as possible.  I want you to publish a pattern that is free from errors, consistent throughout, and easy to follow.  If you have a style that is not standard, but is still easy to follow, then I'm happy to support your style.  

"OK, so why do you think you should be my technical editor?"

• Well, because I love crochet and I want your patterns to be lovely.
• As an avid crocheter I have a passion for error-free patterns.
• My current clients are very happy with my work, so I would expect you to be, too.
• I am fully proficient in regular crochet, Tunisian crochet, hairpin lace, and double-ended hook crochet (maybe this is a subset of Tunisian).
• I am very comfortable with amigurumi, but have edited only a handful or so of these patterns and have crocheted about the same amount. 
• If something is vexing me in your pattern, I'll stop the clock and make a little swatch.

"I'd really like to include stitch diagrams, can you do those, too?"

• Yes, I can.  They cost extra, based on the number of rows and type of drawing (curved rows cost a bit more than "flat" rows, but circles with a simple rpt are as easy as "flat" rows).  They take me longer than they cost, so they are mostly a service to designers who hire me for technical editing.
• I use Inkscape and draw all my own sts.

"Well, do you have anything else that will convince me to try you out?"

• Yes!  I give a 20% discount to new clients on their first pattern.  
• Also, if you refer a new client to me and they use my technical-editing services, you will receive 20% off your next pattern (the designer you referred will still have 20% off their first pattern).

"Well, I'm in the UK and we use different st names, so can you do that?"

• Yes!  I am very comfortable with UK st/technique terms.

"Great!  How do I contact you?"

• You can send an e-mail to me by clicking this link.
• If you prefer, you can leave a comment below with your Ravelry name, or contact me on Ravelry directly,  I'm Amerz.

Notice that I work only with crochet patterns. (I did do a knitting pattern once for a long-time client, she was happy with my work and the pattern is very popular, so... maybe if you become a long-time client and really want me to look at your pattern, I'll do it, but otherwise it's best if I stick with crochet for now. 😉)